Another short explanatory note to start. I’ve decided from now on to post galleries of photos for each day and not caption them. The reason being the uploading and captioning of photos is very time consuming and, frankly, with the large sections down here I’m finding it prohibitive. Hopefully readers will be able to get the context of photos from the text.
Day 83 (30 Jan)
Havelock to Pelorus Bridge (22km)
After a somewhat slack day yesterday we got back into TA mode and ere up early for breakfast in Havelock and purchased a few supplies before we left town about 9.00am. This will be our last shop for the next nine days so hopefully everything I need is either in my pack or in the bounce box. Explaining the resupply/bounce box system, there are quite a few places, especially in the South Island where it is impractical or very difficult to resupply in towns due to distances. In these instances there are generally camps, backpacker accomodation providers or, in some cases just trail angels who will recieve and hold resupply packages for TA walkers to collect. In the North Island I was able to do it without needing to forward any food but down here it is really impractical not to so I’ve forwarded three boxes, one to Pelorus Bridge, one to Bealey and one to Arthur's Pass. Today I get the Pelorus box and can reacquaint myself with whatever I had decided I’d eat for the next eight days. Initially today started off out of Havelock on the main road then turned onto a gravel road that ran along the western bank of the Pelorus River. Nice to get off the main road despite the alternative being very dry and dusty.
At Dalton’s Bridge the trail then follows Dalton’s track through to Pelorus Bridge. Having not done the full research of today I’d assumed Dalton’s Tracks was a nice little bush track that followed the river. Both McVet and I were somewhat disappointed to find it was in fact a route across paddocks at the river end of a large dairy farm. So limited shade and the usual stile to cross every 100m or so.
The farmer (Mr Dalton I’m assuming) had also planted turnips in about five of the paddocks. In the abstract walking across a field of turnips seems ok but the reality is that they are the most awkward vegetable to walk over, every step was a lottery if you would go over on an ankle or not.
Emerging from Dalton’s track there was a lovely little bush walk into Pelorus Bridge.
Pelorus Bridge is where the main state highway crosses the Pelorus River on a single lane bridge. Despite being on the highway it is the most beautiful place with a DOC campsite and swimming holes in the river together with a small cafe.
We collected our boxes from the DOC ranger and enjoyed a meat pie for a late lunch before setting up camp in what was actually a camper an site but gave us access to power to charge phones etc for the last time for a week.
In unpacking our boxes it was frightening how much we had and despite a bit of a cull (donating it to the hikers box the ranger had) we both were looking forward to very heavy pack tomorrow. McVet was also a bit concerned about physically fitting everything into his pack.
Off to bed pretty early as tomorrow the real work commences!
Day 84 31 January
Pelorus Bridge to Captain Creek Hut (22km)
Well today we start the Richmond Ranges section of the TA, this is recognised as the toughest section on the trail due to both the length and the terrain. Little did we know!!
The first challenge was packing everything for eight days into our packs. My packing went pretty well, but, as he expected, Chris had some issues getting the contents of his food box to fit into his pack. I made a cup of tea (for us both) and enjoyed the spectator sport this provided.
Once packed we headed off with noticeably heavier packs. Mine being probably three or four kgs heavier than at any stage in the North Island. Not all this weight was food as due to the possibility of colder weather in the south I’d also packed a few more clothing items and a heavier sleeping bag.
The blisters that have been troubling me since the start down here continue to be an issue. They’re good while I’m sleeping and sitting but bloody painful as soon as I walk. Given this is a walking adventure it seems I’m stuck with them for the foreseeable future.
The route today is along a gravel road to the road end then entering the Richmond Forest Park and tramping track to Captain Creek Hut.
Knowing the hut had only 6 bunks we were fastidiously counting car occupants going both ways in an attempt to estimate the likelihood of our getting a bed. Turned out we were ok as most of the TA walkers who got dropped at the road end made it past Captain Creek and were half a day ahead of us right across the ranges.
The hut at Captain Creek was great except for the sandflies. Initially when I went down to the river to have a wash things seemed ok, but then the sandfly grapevine must have erupted with news of a new human to attack as a cloud of the little buggers just descended on me. So a night of staying in the hut and only leaving if absolutely necessary.
Dennis and Basil, a couple of older guys we’d met previously when walking Queen Charlotte arrived and decided to camp. Tough old guys, Dennis doesn’t even have a tent, just a bivvy bag and a bee keepers type mesh hood to keep the insects off. If it rains he said he has a bit of tarp that he throws over himself.
Day 85 1 February 2021
Captain Creek Hut to Browning Hut (20km)
The morning started following the Pelorus River up the valley and crossing it a number of times, with swing bridges kindly supplied by DOC. Hard to believe having had wet feet almost every day in the North Island I’m now over a week into the South and yet to get my feet wet. Low stream levels do help as so far I’ve managed to rock/boulder hop across them.
A long climb up to Rocks Hut where we stopped for a quick refreshment and break. Then Nepalese flat (being never ending ups and downs but finishing at the same altitude) across the top. There has obviously been a big storm through here in the last ten years or so as the to was like a tree graveyard. Sad to see these magnificent native trees rotting it it does remind you of the power of nature that it can wreck havoc on forest that is hundreds of years old.
After leaving the tree graveyard the trail dropped down to Browning Hut.
One thing I’m learning up here is that now of it is easy, even the downhill sections are challenging and often slower than up as you need to watch every step to ensure you down fall.
From the tops you can look to the north west and at times see Nelson and it’s surrounds. Hard to believe I’m that close to a long black and brownie and eating rehydrated food and drinking water!
At the hut tonight were a couple of other TA walkers, Zak and Warren. Things got off to a somewhat awkward start when thinking with my hearing I’d missed Warrens name I asked Chris what his name was Chris informed me we hadn’t introduced ourselves yet. So off I went and did the formal intro thing. Same with Zac when. He arrived a bit later.
Later in the evening I started referring to Warren as Neville which for some reason I’d decided he was. After sorting this out and finding out his dad was Neville I moved on to Zac and was talking to him about felling trees and his work as an arborist. He was looking increasingly mystified by the conversation until he finally fessed up that he wasn ‘t an arborist he was a geologist. Seems perhaps I do need to put the hearing aids in at huts to prevent more confusing conversations.
This do cause much hilarity and in Warrens case I thin k the name Neville might have stuck as everyone is referring to him as such now.
Day 86 2 February
Browning Hut to Slaty Hut (15km)
This is the first of the really big days in here, not saying the previous couple haven’t been hard but they get more difficult now. Today has over 1500m of ascent and 600m of descent.
In a first for the trip Chris was ready first this morning, for some reason I was just not firing on all cylinders and was a bit slow getting organised.
After leaving the hut the trail went back and forth across a few streams (or may have been the same stream multiple times!) so today was the first day of wet shoes for the South Island. The one thing going for it is the blisters do feel better cold and wet but I’m sure it’ll be short lived.
I have organised for Marie to send my old North Island shoes down to St Anaud so hopefully once I get them things will improve. The only issue with the shoes I used up north is their robustness in this terrain. Through the North Island I used three pairs which works out to be about 50c/km and down here I think it might be worse. Driving was always going to be cheaper!
Today we go past two other huts on the way to our destination of Slaty Hut. Unfortunately in our ambling along and not paying attention we somehow missed the trail to Hacket Hut and took a rather long route to there that went up and down far more than the proper did. Even really we emerged close to Hacket and got ourselves back on the correct track.
From Hacket to Starveal is a long climb and given our differing climb speed we separated with me agreeing to meet Chris at Pyramid Rock, about half way to Starveal. When I got to Pyramid Rock it appeared there was nothing there except wasps so I carried on thin king Chris would just follow and we would meet at Starveal. Mistake!!
Chris having not seen me at Pyramid Rock was worried he had missed me and I’d gone off trail up a side track to look at the views or something so he put his pack down bd went back down half a km or so looking for me. Not finding me but mystified he returned to his pack and headed on to Starveal. Unfortunately he took a tumble on the way adding insult to injury especially when arriving at Starveal he finds me happily eating and waiting for him. Needless to say he was somewhat unhappy and I suitably contrite.
The views from Starveal were to die for! It was a bit of a shame we needed to leave there and head on to Slaty.
The route to Slaty, while only about 5km was a very steep uphill (scree so really hard yakka) followed by an equally steep downhill and then a final climb back up to the hut. Large portions of this were above the bush line so it was very hot, dry and tiring.
I arrived at Slaty Hut about 4.30pm to fin d there were already five people there and given it is a six bunk hut at least one of us was camping or on the floor.
By about 5.30pm there were another couple of people but no Chris so I was starting to get a little worried and considering going back in case he’d had an accident. Fortunately at about this time he came wandering over the ridge, looking absolutely buggered and saying that was it he was done and tomorrow we’re going nowhere! His mood didn’t improve knowing the hut was full.
I offered Chris the bunk, as a piece offering having made him walk that extra km earlier in the day, but he decided he’d probably sleep better in his tent than a crowded hut with people on then floor.
In the hut tonight were a mother and daughter pair (Tui and Jo) who were NOBOs so it was good to be able to hear from them what lay ahead. None of it easy, but at least we knew what the next couple of days held in store for us.
Also in the hut tonight were a father and daughter pair (Steph and Dave) who were going the same way as us and seemed on a very similar timetable. Writing this now I can say we have developed a close friendship with them and are thoroughly enjoying their company.
Day 87 3rd February
Slaty Hut to Mt Rintoul Hut (13km)
Woke to another beautiful day, cold and clear with no change in sight.
The days do just keep on getting tougher, today promises more up and down, again mostly above the bush line and through scree and boulders.
McVet and I stayed together until the track to Old Man Hut and had a great morning just wandering and chatting despite some pretty challenging up’s and downs. After the old man turn off we separated agreeing to meet at the hut this afternoon.
The trail was again generally above the bush line and involved a series of long hot climbs followed by equally steep and somewhat precarious descents. Getting to the top of Little Rintoul you had a magnifient view of Mt Rintoul and the climb to its summit. It appeared if anything easier than what I’d just climber so I assumed the afternoon was going to be a doddle. How wrong can you be!!!
From the top of Little Rintoul the track really narrowed and literally fell into a deep gorge. In places the trail consisted of a ledge, perhaps 12inches (300mm for those who are metric) wide with a sheer face on the inside and long drop on the other. Needless to say one wrong footing was going be terminal and despite being hot and wary I just had to keep focussed.
Once at the bottom the climb up Mt Rintoul was not what it appeared from above, it was a long hot clamber up scree slopes and over boulders with a periodic climb up a face thrown in to keep you focussed. The whole time the sun beat down on my back so hot, dusty and very tired by the time I reached the summit.
But boy was the summit worth it!! 360deg views and despite there being no shelter a gentle breeze which was cooling.
From the top of Mt Rintoul the trail drops all the way to Mt Rintoul Hut. Sounds great but, frankly, proved harder than then climb. Really slippery on the loose rock and toes and knees screening out that this was unfair!
As the toilet for the hut came into sight, perhaps 100m below me I got a bit unfocused in the excitement t of the end being near and managed to fall twice in then space of ten metres, first on my left then on the right so matching grazes!
I can honestly say, despite the low distance, this has been the toughest day on the entire TA (all 1900km of it) to date!
Day 88 February 4th
Mt Rintoul Hut to Mid Wairoa Hut
Getting up in the morning and looking at where we came form yesterday it really is quite impressive.
Interestingly the toilet here has the best view and I imagine just about everyone who visits chooses to leave the door open to enjoy it.
Today is more descent than ascent which promises more sore toes and knees.
Initially however the trail climbs through beech forest to about 1400m. The beech trees attract wasps and this section is just swarming with them. One particular area I named wasp alley as you passed through a narrow section with trees covered in wasps on both sides, the whole time hoping there don’t notice you and hence remain sting free.
From the ridge there is a descent to Tarn Hut and the tarn (a tarn being a small mountain lake). Unfortunately the lake was not quite as expected. It was actually a shallow muddy pond so no swimming possible.
We stopped at Tarn Hut for an early lunch but moved on pretty quickly once the sandflies found us.
From Tarn Hut there was a climb back to the trail then a steep descent all the way to mid-Wairoa Hut. Again the descent was really hard work both ensuring you didn’t fall and with knees and toes again protesting.
McVet and I did discuss carrying on to top-Wairoa Hut today in order to make tomorrows climb a bit easier but by the time we reached mid-Wairoa any idea of going on had evaporated as we looked forward to a rest and some food.
Warren/Neville had moved on to top-Wairoa so we’re now down to just the four of us in the same cohort, Dave and Steph and McVet and I so a nice night in the hut with a bit of room to spread out.
Day 89 February 5th
Mid-Wairoa Hut to Hunters Hut (18km)
Today the trail seems pretty straight forward, up all morning then down all afternoon with a short up to finish to the hut. The problem being the up was both interminable and steep and the down slippery and treacherous!
Leaving the hut you were straight away into a steep climb of over 1000m largely mutually in beech forest with the accompanying wasps as far as top-Wairoa Hut. Unfortunately I finally managed to infuriate a couple of wasps and got stung on the left leg which didn’t exactly make my morning.
There were a few stream crossings so wet feet again.
After top-Wairoa Hut the trail was above the bush line and climbed steeply to about 1400m and across the flank of Mt Ellis. My navigation showed us going over Mt Ellis (another 150m of climb) so it was with relief that urge markers showed a path that ran around it.
On the way up there was a large amount of boulder hopping which did require real care a a wrong foot could easily end up in a broken bone or worse.
One on the tops however the views were, again, absolutely stunning. I really can’t put into words the feeling as I stood there, frankly, feeling like I was on top of the world despite only being up 1500m or so!!
As usual every uphill is followed by a down and so from the top we descended via another treacherous rocky, slippery slope to a stream and followed it down for a couple of kms. The hut was by then visible in then distance sitting above the valley floor on a ridge.
Sadly this hut was built on the ridge after the previous hut was washed away in a flash flood killing a couple of DOC staff in the 1990’s. The hut is now about 150m or so above the stream and hence had a long very steep climb to it.
I arrived first, having passed Steph and Dave on the descent. We’d all seem McVet from the top struggling up Mt Ellis and didn’t expect him for an hour so. Imagine our surprise when he wandered in about twenty minutes later. It seems on the downhill that we all shuffled down he found a way to jog down it. Unfortunately he had also managed to do a face plant at one stage so had grazes on legs and face.
Again just the four of us in what is a lovely hut with amazing views so a really nice night.
Day 90 February 6th (Waitangi Day)
Hunter’s Hut to Red Hills Hut (19km)
The penultimate day in the Richmond Ranges and dare I say it the last hard day up here.
Then sunrise from the hut perched on the ridge was spectacular.
As this section. Has progressed I do feel increasingly weary in the mornings and am finding getting going is taking that bit longer. Today was no exception and exacerbated by starting in cold wet shoes, socks and cap.
Today we are passing innumerable streams so I’ve decided to decrease my pack weight by carrying a bit less water and stopping at streams for a drink every now and then. Something you take for granted up here is the pure cold stream water, it really is a great to drink and cold enough in some cases hat it induces “ice cream headaches”.
McVet and I walked together all day today stopping for lunch at Porters Hut. Lunch food is getting pretty thin so lunch consisted of half a wrap with chilli sauce on it, some almonds and half a packet of gummy bears. Not the healthiest but ok and plenty of energy for the afternoon.
The afternoon on consisted of more rocky and scree ups and downs mainly in the open so really hot and sunny. Not often you wish for rain but today is one of those times.
At one stage we were confronted with a sheeer cliff, luckily the navigation app I’m using (Guthook) has crowd sourced comments and someone had posted that on the northern side there is away up with some foot and hand holds. Nevertheless it was a bit hairy but we managed to ascend it without incident.
Mid-afternoon Chris slid awkwardly on a descent in loose stuff and pulled his quad. He carried on and unfortunately did the same thing again a km or so further on, this time barely being able to walk on it. We beoth had thoughts of helicopters and his needing winching out (we’re at this stage in quite a deep ravine). Fortunately after getting some cold stream water on it and massaging a bit of Voltaren in he was able to move on, albeit at a slower pace.
After sidling along the side of a ridge for what seemed forever (probably only a couple or three km’s though) we descended to the valley floor and it was a relatively flat walk to the hut.
A new addition to our little cohort here as we have caught up to another TA walker Jenny from Ngahinapouri.
Much joviality in the hut knowing tomorrow we have only a short hike out to the road then a road walk into St Anaud. Most conversation seemed focussed around real food and beer in St Anaud!
Day 91. February 7th
Red Hills Hut to St Anaud
A short day and frankly a short blog today!
Up early excited about getting back to civilisation.
The walk to the road took us about an hour and a half followed by about 10km on the road to St Anaud.
Steph and I took off in the lead and were in St Anaud by a little after 11.00am.
On the way into town we encountered a lady with a box of cherry tomatoes, asked where she got them and transpires there was a mini farmers market at then Alpine Lodge which coincidentally is where we’re were staying.
Arriving at the lodge we wasted no time buying three boxes of then tomatoes and had finished one before the others arrived.
Lunch as I’d been dreaming for a few days of pizza, chips and beer and enjoying the company of Warren and Sara who having arrived ed a day before us ere also staying for then night.
Now a shout out to the Alpine Lodge!! This place is amazing the people can’t do enough to help an frankly have totally embraced the spirit of the TA. Marie and I visited here a year or two ago and loved it and on returning I must say it is on my list favourite places in New Zealand. If you get a chance to visit here do so.
Picked up my food resupply box but unfortunately McVet’s has failed to arrive. Again the spirit of the TA abounds and he was showered with offers of food, gas etc. so with some pitches from the local general store is looking ok for the next section. Sara gave him some stuff that has instructions in French (her being French) so he might need a French/English dictionary for cooking!
Lastly and most importantly my dear Marie had posted my old North Island shoes here and I can finally ditch the blister creating ones and get into something that despite knowing they are not so robust I equally know won’t cause me to hobble all day and cringe every time I’m confronted with a downhill section!!
Tomorrow is an R&R day here and hence I will not blog it.
Well done John. I keep hearing how challenging that section is. At least it’s done and dusted. I read every word of your blogs. Thank you so much for the effort you put in.
You DEFINITELY deserve a beer John and I will have one to.... (feeling a little exhausted after the marathon TA section).